Annapurna Himalaya Trek

Well we've just got back from a 4 day trek called the Ghorepani to Ghandruk Loop. It takes you through the western side of the Himalaya's called the Annapurna Circuit. You climb from 1012 metres to 3210 metres which doesn't sound steep but for 2 solid days you basically walk up and one of those days is just slate steps for hour after hour. I carried 14 kgs (big mistake) and Carolyn had 7 kgs (another big mistake!). It's very challenging physically and would easily be the hardest thing I've ever done since I was in the army all those years ago.
The 'trail' goes from goat tracks (complete with goats) to slate steps and then recent landslides which you have to traverse. Due to an upcoming Tibetan festival huge herds of goats were being herded down the mountains for sale at market and of course you had to move off the tracks to let them pass. Add to the mix ponies carrying rice and gas bottles and the odd water buffalo and it makes for interesting times especially with all their poo on the track!
I won't bore you with all the  details but for the 1st 2 days you see nothing but Nepalese jungle and rolling hills with mist and rain but on the 3rd morning having arrived at Ghorepani the night before we climbed Poon Hill (3210m) to see the Annapurna Ranges. OMG! it absolutely blew me away - you are confronted with an array of mountain peaks from 6000 to 8217 metres and all in the glorious sunrise light. It truly was a life affirming moment for both of us and something that will stay with me forever. Even writing this some 3 days later I feel emotional about it. It was a wonderful experience. Best of all Poon  Hill had not been clear for a whole week and there was nothing to see, but the morning we went it was clear (hopefully the photo's will give you an idea). After that we started the descent which was not great for my knee but was certainly easier than going up, but was harder for Carolyn.  As we came down (2 days) you walk through a clearing in the jungle and see the soaring peaks of the Himalaya right there almost within touching distance wow!
The lodges we stayed in were basic but at least you had hot showers (most of the time) and all the lodges charge exactly the same price  for a room and food and drinks all the way around as part of a co-operative so it's reasonably cheap.
We hired a guide  (as most people do) and Lakpa was brilliant. A true gent he made everything so easy for us ( I of course refused to let him carry my pack). After a day or so I had to ask if he'd climbed Everest to which he replied "yes but only the once". He really enriched the experience and contributed to it being such a fantastic thing to do.
When asked if there was anymore climbing Lakpa would say "no, only Nepalese flat" which we quickly worked out would mean 2 hours of up and more up!
When we got back to our starting point, Naya Pul, I checked the Lonely Planet to find that the 4 day trek we did should take 6 days! No wonder we were knackered, 78 kms in 4 days up and down from 1210m to 3210m  and back again is hard yards. The only reason we took the trek on was because we were told it was "lite" trekking yet everyone we met said it was the hardest thing they'd attempted.
Anyway it's done and it's filed away as the most amazing experience that I'm so glad Carolyn and I could share together. The only way it could have been better was to have Jaz and Elle with us. The phot's are in a separate blog.
Tomorrow we are off to Chitwan National Park for a 3 day jungle safari - rhino's, elephants and hopefully tigers!
Again we're "off the grid" so will update the blog when we get back to Kathmandu next week.

Kathmandu/Pokhara

We arrived in Kathmandu day 28 of our trip (20 Sept) from Delhi. Our hotel - the Ganesh Himahl is excellent and close to the main area of Thamel which is a maze of narrow lanes and streets choc-a-block with everything from traveller's gear to pashminas to mini wooden violins! It's a heady mix when combined with German bakers, pizza restuarants and tiger balm hawkers on every corner. It's very vibrant and  full of back packers but also safe and the food is excellent especially the local favourite - momo's which are vege dumplings both steam and fried complete with a dipping sauce. The beer of choice is either Mt Everest Lager (unsurprisingly) or Gurkha Beer. Both ok.
We chilled out for most of our time except for visitng Durbar Square the cultural heart of Kathmandu. It looks much like all of Nepal did when travellers starting coming here in the 60's. Most of the architecture dates back to the 16th Century. We also posted some trinkets home which is an experience. After it's boxed up it is handstiched in cotton and then wax sealed on the corners with a post office seal. Very elegant.
Yesterday we took the bus to here in Pokhara some 190 kms to the north east. The trip took 8 hours with some impressive 2000 ft drops off a road only wide enough for 1 vehicle yet you are competing with fully laden trucks as road transport is the only mode of supplying the rest of the country. Another bus ride from hell!
We are in Pokhara so that we can do a short trek into the Annurpuna mountain range.  We are away for 4 days and 3 nights and wil be staying in local villages with pretty spartan facilities - no hot water, generators cut out at 8pm etc. It really is only a 'taster' as the whole circuit takes 21 days to complete. Still it should be fun. We have a guide and I'll carry our stuff and Carolyn will have the day pack. If the weather is clear we'll be close to some 6000 and 7000 metre mountains  so it should make for great photo's! We then come back to Pokhara before going to Chitwin National Park for a 3 day jungle safari!!!! Sorry I can't add photo's this PC won't let me.

Delhi and Carolyn Goes the Biff!

We arrived in Delhi late on Saturday night and had the usual hassles form the taxi drivers. They are extremely aggresive and predatory by nature. After a couple (10) of polite refusals I told him to f#$k off! He did.
Hotel Aura is ok but in Old Delhi which is quite run down but the rest of Delhi is a pleasant surprise. The roads are clean and wide and the city is very green. The traffic is orderley by Indian standards and the eating and shopping is pretty good. All in all we've had a good couple of days.
 Sunday we went to Red Fort and it was packed with huge lines to get in because of the upgraded security. (a bombing last week). Carolyn wandered off and had her back to me and I noticed some guys in their 20's checking her out (as with all western women). 1 of them gestured to his mates to stand next Carolyn so he could film her from behind but seemingly taking photo's of his mates. I could see what was going on and walked over to Carolyn and gently moved her away whilst explaining what was happening.. She turned round and the guy was videoing her. I told him to stop as Carolyn did but she then walked up to him and cracked him on the arm with her brolly and yelled at him. He was startled and rejoined his mates. As we walked off he said something and I spun round and took 2 steps towards them and they took off. This all happened in a crowd of thousands. Carolyn laughed it off and it didn't spoil her day but it does highlight something that may seem lighthearted and innocent but is far from that.
Since we arrived we've both noticed that, from teenage boys to older men,  look at western women with a lustful look that is not flattering in any way. They are very open about it and it is done in a fashion to intimidate. This is not us as visitors mistaking signals - it's very off putting and not at all nice when you are admiring a tourist attraction only to have gangs of boys ogling in a highly sexualised manner at your wife. When I catch them I give them the stare or say something and it stops. We've heard from other travellers about single western women being groped on the streets.
It won't spoil our holiday but non-the less it's very unsettling especially for Carolyn. I'd like to be there when the bloke Carolyn whacked and his mates tell the story  of the day they took on Ms Carolyn and lost!
We went to another couple of tourist spots including the Lotus Temple which is staggeriing and  then called it a day.
We're off to Nepal tomorrow and have had a good time here in Delhi - one incident apart!

Khujaraho

Temple hopping and looking at the Karma Sutra in Khujaraho, a small village between Varanasi and Agra. I got a great deal on accomodation and we lived it up with a pool and a bed turn down service. Carolyn said "are we at the right place?"
The temples are world heritage listed and a ticket in to the walled and manicured gardens means you're not hounded by touts at every turn. The buildings have been well preserved and the intricate carvings of highly erotic scenes are not for the faint at heart. The Guide Book talked of a carving with a man and horse having relations!!!! Of course I hunted high and low until i found it, just before we left.
On Friday, the hotel staff suprised me with a birthday cake and let us stay in the room until 5pm at no extra charge. We caught a taxi to the local train station for the overnight train to Agra. We had to change at Mohaba and wait for an hour. The train station was grotty to say the least and and we were stared at like we were a freak show in a circus. A group of men stood less than a few metres from us, just staring. We met Mike from Seatlle who had a five hour wait on his own, so glad it wasn't us. Hope you survived it Mike and made it to Varanasi.
We arrived in Agra at 2.30 am and waited until 5.00 am to catch the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. It is breath-taking and just as amazing as we were expecting. The sky was clear and made for some great photos. We meandered around for three hours, had some breakfast on a roof top terrace overlooking the Taj and then headed off to the Red Fort. Another amazing feat of architecture with beautiful marble inlay work and intricate Moghul carvings and designs. A further taxi ride to the other side of the river and we saw the Baby Taj, it isn't really, as it slightly predates the Taj but is another amazing building and again the Moghul designs and marble inlay are incredible.

We are not staying in Agra, catching another evening train tonight onto Delhi for three days before heading to Nepal on Tuesday.

By Any Means and Beer of Choice!

Just a quick add on to highlight the different modes of transport we have used  - so far!
Jet plane, propeller plane, taxi cab, tuk tuk, pony and cart, cyclo, push bike, motor bike, metro train, row boat, bus, coach, metro train, ferry and after tonite night  train. More to follow no doubt!

Beers tasted - again so far! Beer Lao, Singha, Tiger, Beer Chaing, Ikon, Kingfisher ... and the winner is Beer Lao! Good drop but it's never cold enough.

Varanasi

Day 19 of our journey saw us arrive in Varanasi probably the holiest site in India for Hindu's. The Ghats (steps) that lead to the Ganges is where everyone gathers to wash., offer prayers, burn dead bodies, wash clothing and replenish!

The town is pretty grotty and rubbish and filth abounds much the same as Kolkata but you can see all past this when you realise how much respect they pay to the Mother Ganga (Ganges River). Going down to the Ghats and witnessing the daily rituals of cleansing and praying is quite moving but you do feel that you are intruding.

This time of year sees Hindus come to Veranasi to pray for relatives who have passed away.. We were very fortunate to get into the Vishwanath (Golden ) Temple which is the equivalent of  the Vatican! The push of bodies and the electric atmosphere of being cheek to cheek with people who are on a pilgramage was humbling. It really was an experience not to be forgotten. That night we went down to the Ghat for evening prayers and blessings which goes for an hour and has a lot significance for Hindu's. We got on a row boat to be at the front and although the photo's won't show it, it really was a privilege to observe.

Our lat day saw us on a row boat at dawn to witness the sun come up over the Ganges (inspiring)  and to travel up all the Ghats. A must do if you come to Varanasi. We then went to a "burning" Ghat to witness people being cremated on open fires. The stretchers are covered but you can smell the burning. I did find out some interesting facts which I'll dot point below (if you're interested)

• 150 bodies are cremated daily
• the individual fires are lit from a 3000 year old eternal flame
• Sandalwood is used for important people such as politicians and teachers!
• it takes 3 hours for a person to burn
• the wood costs 3000 rupees for each cremation which are held in the open and in full view
• pregnant women, brahmin priests and people killed by cobra bites are put into the Ganges weighed down by heavy rocks. They are seen as pure people and do not require burning to release their soul. Pregnant women have a 'bloom' inside them.

2 or 3 days is plenty and then we were off to Khujaraho - home of the Karma Sutra!!!!!

Kolkota Chaos

OH MY GOD!
Nothing can prepare you for the assault on your senses when you leave the airport - the sea of people, cars, bikes, rickshaws, tuk tuks is simply overwhelming  and in pure numbers (16 million and counting) is hard to comprehend. The filth and rubbish you see in the 2 hour drive from the airport - $6 and only 22 kms - is beyond anything I expected.
The chaos on the roads with ancient taxis all jockeying for position and where rules are merely suggestions is something even the most hardened traveller couldn't but shake their head at.
Our hotel is in a residential area in the south of the city and is an oasis of calm and pretty flash compared to the backpacker accom in Sudder St where most travellers (read young) gather. It's good to be in this part because you also don't get bothered by touts and beggars and you get to see the daily life of ordinary Indians.

Today (Sunday) we went to the Victoria Memorial - a monument to the Empire days. Wonderful building and a good way to get an understanding of the 'rule' of the Brits who were brutal and hardly benevolent towards their commonwealth subjects. Then we went to have a look at the Hooglay Bridge and onto the New Market. The highlight was a trip to a Gungeer Sweet shop - Moghul sweets are world renowned - burfi, galam julung etc and all made with pure Ghee. We also had a Tharli lunch - dahls, curries, chapati's, pickles and dessert for $3! Magnificent.
We are off to Veranasi tomorrow morning by plane (couldn't get a train until 16 Sept) and here's hoping the for a few less people and a shorter ride from the airport!

Koh Tao Island - Thailand

We are just kicking back relaxing on Koh Tao Island before heading off to Bangkok and then India on Saturday. Our beach side villa is literally 10 metres from the water!

We hired a motorbike y'day and cruised the island and just relaxed. Last night was spent eating a bbq fish dinner and then chilling on the beach at the Lotus Bar - very relaxed,   cool music, and we were the eldest there!

I went back and corrected my spelling  from the Myanmar post. I also posted some photo's  - have a look.I reviewed what I wrote and I don't want to come over as naive - I read widely about Myanmar and researched widely before we went. Ah well it is what it is!

Will post again once we are in Kolkota India

Myanmar

Yangon - Mandalay - Bagan - Bangkok!
Hi everyone. Sorry for the huge delay in posting on the blog but access was blocked in Myanmar. I can only assume it was  to prevent people posting negative or anti junta feelings which is a shame.

Before we even arrived in Yangon we saw some sights. On the plane from KL to Yangon we were 2 of only 6 'westerners' on the flight! As we taxied to take off the bloke in front answered his mobile and calmly engaged in a conversation. I looked around to see if anyone would say anything only to find that I could see one bloke texting and another playing a car racing game on his i-phone! When we landed a family was up and out of its chairs withing 5 seconds of the plane touching down and everyone just charged to the front of the plane. Chaos ensued!

When we arrived in Yangon we were surprised at how the infrastructure was very old and decrepit. The taxis are ancient and our broke down. Driving through the burbs everything seemed old and run down.

We spent the first day orientating oursselves and visited the Schwe Dagon Paya Pagoda the 'centrepiece' of both the city and the buddhist faith in Myanmar. I wont bore you with the details but the gold leafed covered stupa reaches 98m into the Yangon sky and is breathtaking not only in its beauty but also the calm and serenity it exudes. In a city of some 6 million that is chocked by car fumes and is chaotic and busy it really is a sanctuary. We went back at night and saw it under spotlights and it was even better. Just to see local people put aside the daily struggles to take some time to pray and pay respect is quite humbling to a no believer!
Carolyn and I covered 21 kms on that 1st day walking around the city taking in the sites. Yangon is fairly  uninspiring and we made plans to head north to Mandalay flying Bagan Air - no I had never heard of them either!

Mandalay was fine and we climbed Mandalay Hill - all 1452 steps (I counted them). Great views and we spent a good 1 hour sitting with some monks who were keen to practice their english on us.

Accom in Myanmar is basic and our guest house was what you might call rustic with the drains in the shower being open and the power a bit on the intermittent side!

We decided to hit the road and caught a bus to the temples of Bagan. Safe to say that the bus ride will rank right up there with our previous "bus rides from hell". The route is on a 'main secondary road' that for much of it was uncovered and washed away. Then we got bogged in a river bed - and we all stood and watched as the driver argued with a local crew on the cost of his assistance in getting us out! Very funny! Of course being a Kimberley boy I could tell that by trying to turn your wheels and not reversing and then going forward all they were doing was digging themselves in deeper.

The trip was so rough my back went and accompanied with a dose of the Rangoon Runs I spent the best part of a day in bed! Carolyn also went down with the trots and we were a fine site. On holiday and both crook in the guts!

Next day we hired a pony and buggy ($12 for the day with driver) and went to check out the Bagan Plains. Over 2000 stupas dating back to the 12th Century dot the plains around Bagan and it truly is site to behold. Word cannot describe the 360 degree view that's afforded fro the top of various stupas. If my photo's can be attached you'll see but if not just google Bagan and you'll get some idea.

The next day Carolyn was still unwell and the somewhat squalid conditions were having an effect and we made the decision to leave Myanmar even though we had only been here for 8 days. It's a sad country mired in poverty and oppresion by a military regime that allows little in the way of freedom of speech. Of course I knew this before we came so I shouldn't have been surprised.

People are unfailingly friendly and happy and want people to travel there - god knows they need the money.

Myanmar seems to have changed little in the years since the British left last century. Everything is old and decrepit. Basic infrastructure is lacking and there are no foreign NGO's or evidence of UNICEF programs. It's like the military junta don't want the eyes of the world on it. Indeed one of the local newspapers under it's logo says "say no to meddling foreign interests".

Se we left feeling more sad than anything else about a beautiful country rich with natural resources and abundant with oil and wonderful friendly people caught in a time warp!

We landed in Bangkok a couple of days ago - what a difference! Modern, chaotic, commerce driven, full of tourists! We decided to head off to in island to sit on a beach for a few days and later today are catching a bus and ferry  to Kho Tau Island (next ot Kho Samui) to sit on a beach! Our accom is right on the beach! Can't wait - we're both well again and looking forward to some sun before heading off to India!

Sorry about the spelling - the spell check doesn't work and I'm too tired to manually check it.

Will post again soonest.